What is the average hat size for men?

The average men's hat size in the UK is 59 cm, typically a size Large. Measuring your head ensures the most accurate fit.

How do I measure my head for a hat?

Use a soft tape measure and measure around your head just above the ears and across the forehead. Keep the tape level and snug to determine your size in centimetres.

A flat cap is a rounded cap with a small stiff brim at the front, traditionally associated with British heritage style.

What is the difference between a fedora and a trilby?

A fedora typically has a wider brim and softer shape, while a trilby features a shorter brim and a taller crown, offering a sleeker silhouette.

Can a felt hat get wet?

Felt hats are naturally water-resistant but should not be exposed to heavy rain for extended periods. Allow them to dry naturally at room temperature.

Do you offer in-store collection?

Yes, orders can be collected from our London, Cambridge, or Oxford stores within 3-5 working days.

Three essential tools for reshaping your hat and when to use them

September 10, 2026

A sagging crown, a softened brim, or a warped silhouette can make even a favourite bakerboy cap or flat cap appear tired. With three simple tools and a little know-how, you can revive its shape and character without replacing the hat.

Learn how to match a hat's material to its shape retention, use a hat block with steam and a soft brush for controlled reshaping, and store hats so they maintain their form. Follow these steps to recognise the signs that a gentle reshape is due, keep hats looking sharp, and help them last longer.

A single woman sits on the floor near a stone wall and tiled steps, weaving a large straw mat. She is wearing a white wide-brimmed hat with a black ribbon, a white cardigan over a white lace blouse, and a red skirt with embroidered floral patterns accented by a matching red scarf. She is focused on her hands, which manipulate the straw strands into the shape of a hat. The setting appears outdoor or semi-outdoor with natural light illuminating the scene from the left side of the frame.

1. Choose materials that preserve a hat's shape and structure

Different hat materials respond in characteristic, predictable ways. Wool felt compresses and relaxes under steam; straw softens with moisture but can crack if overworked; leather becomes pliable when warmed and firms as it dries; and cotton canvas will shrink and hold creases. Match the method to the construction: use controlled steam and gentle hand-moulding for wool felt, careful humidification and pinning on a block for straw, warm stretching and conditioning for leather, and low-heat pressing through a cloth for canvas. Set each shape to dry on a block, or on rolled tissue, to lock the form. Structured crowns require firmer blocking, while unstructured styles such as the bakerboy cap and flat cap need gentler reshaping to avoid distorting seams or panels.

Recognise a hat that needs reshaping by visible creases, a collapsed crown, a warped brim, or a noticeably looser fit after rain or compression. Minor contouring at home will correct small distortions, but structural work such as reblocking, repairs to seams or linings, and brim reconstruction should be entrusted to a milliner. Store hats on a proper stand or with breathable stuffing, avoid hanging on pegs or stacking, and rotate wear to prevent permanent compression. Keep hats away from prolonged damp and direct heat, since compression flattens brims and repeated humidity cycles alter fibre behaviour. Internal stiffening and brim reinforcement will prolong shape but can reduce breathability; periodic sweatband replacement, selective blocking, and regular leather conditioning will help preserve form, although professional reblocking may still be necessary for a lasting fix.

The image shows a dark blue fedora hat placed on a wooden hat stretcher clamp, centered on a circular metal table or surface. The background is mostly grayscale, featuring shelves filled with stacks of hats or hat forms. There is another hat visible in the background on the right side, slightly out of focus. The setting appears to be indoors, likely a hat shop or millinery workspace. The lighting is soft and diffused, with a moderate contrast highlighting the hat as the color focal point against the monochromatic backdrop.

2. Use a hat block, steam, and brush with millinery precision

Select a hat block that matches the crown profile and size. A correctly sized block prevents overstretching the fibres and preserves the hat's silhouette. Use a taller block for high crowns and a shallow form for bakerboy caps and flat caps, and secure the hat gently with cloth-covered pins or a low-pressure clamp to keep the shape symmetrical while you work. Introduce a steady stream of steam to relax the fibres rather than soak the material, testing on an inconspicuous area first, and avoid prolonged direct heat on glued trims or delicate linings. For finishing, brush wool and felt with a soft horsehair brush to lift the nap and remove dust; reserve a stiffer natural-bristle brush or a gentle cloth for straw. Remove or protect hatbands, feathers, and metal fittings before you begin.

After shaping, allow the hat to dry completely on its block in a well-ventilated place. Once dry, refine the edges with a soft brush or your fingertips to restore a crisp finish. Regular brushing removes oil build-up that flattens the form and makes future reblocking easier. Do not reblock on a fixed schedule; reshape only when visual cues appear: a drooping brim, a softened crown, an uneven sit, or after the hat has been crushed or become waterlogged. Consider the material as you work. Straw can crack if exposed to excessive moisture and should be reshaped with a light mist and firm support, while leather responds better to gentle warming and conditioning than to aggressive steaming.

The image shows a light tan woven straw hat with a wide brim and a dark brown fabric band around the crown. The hat is placed on a wooden hat block with a metal clamp mechanism attached. The background is plain white, providing a clear and unobstructed view of the hat and block.

3. Store with care and reshape when necessary

When it is time to reshape, match your method to the hat material. Wool and felt respond to gentle steam because steam relaxes the fibres; work slowly, and hold the shape as the material cools. Straw will crack if bent repeatedly, so support the brim and crown and reshape sparingly. Leather accepts only light dampening and gradual manipulation; avoid saturating the surface to prevent marking or stiffening. Keep a compact kit to hand: a sized hat form or mould to restore crown geometry, a steam source such as a kettle or clothes steamer to make fibres pliable, and soft cloths or tissue paper for internal support. Use the form to maintain proportions, the steam to allow controlled movement, and the tissue to preserve internal contours while the hat dries. Always test steam on an inconspicuous area first to check for colour run or finish changes. Work incrementally, and allow the hat to dry between adjustments; these precautions reduce the risk of permanent distortion. If you are unsure, consult a professional hatter for delicate or high-value pieces.

A considered routine keeps a hat true to its shape. Store hats on forms or in breathable hat boxes, avoid stacking them directly, and protect them from direct sunlight and persistent damp. Natural repellents such as cedar or dried lavender deter moths and help preserve the fibres' nap and structure. Reshape not by the calendar but when the brim flops, the crown creases, or after heavy rain, packing, or sweaty wear; addressing deformation while the fibres remain pliable reduces the risk of permanent damage. For most hats, a concise process suffices: insert a form or stuff the crown with acid-free tissue, hold steam at a short distance until the fibres relax, mould the brim and crown by hand or with the form, then allow the hat to cool and dry completely on its support.

To support that routine, have on hand a correctly sized hat block, a gentle steam source, and soft cloths or tissue. Match your method to the material, because wool, straw, leather, and canvas each respond differently; wool accepts gentle steam and blocking, straw needs minimal moisture and careful reshaping, leather benefits from brief steaming and soft-cloth smoothing, and canvas tolerates firmer shaping. Used correctly, the block restores crown geometry, steam lifts the nap, and cloths protect the finish, so a favourite bakerboy cap or flat cap regains its shape without unnecessary repairs.

Use visual cues rather than a schedule: if the brim flops, the crown softens, or the hat begins to lose its line, reshape it while the fibres are still pliable. Store hats on hat forms or loosely stuffed with breathable tissue, rotate wear to distribute strain, and leave heavy reblocking or structural repairs to a professional milliner. These practices help prevent permanent creasing and reduce the need for extensive repairs, preserving a hat’s line and finish.

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