What is the average hat size for men?

The average men's hat size in the UK is 59 cm, typically a size Large. Measuring your head ensures the most accurate fit.

How do I measure my head for a hat?

Use a soft tape measure and measure around your head just above the ears and across the forehead. Keep the tape level and snug to determine your size in centimetres.

A flat cap is a rounded cap with a small stiff brim at the front, traditionally associated with British heritage style.

What is the difference between a fedora and a trilby?

A fedora typically has a wider brim and softer shape, while a trilby features a shorter brim and a taller crown, offering a sleeker silhouette.

Can a felt hat get wet?

Felt hats are naturally water-resistant but should not be exposed to heavy rain for extended periods. Allow them to dry naturally at room temperature.

Do you offer in-store collection?

Yes, orders can be collected from our London, Cambridge, or Oxford stores within 3-5 working days.

3 Ways Lining and Stiffening Affect a Flat Cap's Comfort and Shape Retention

June 6, 2026

Why does one bakerboy cap feel cosy yet hold its shape, while another goes limp after only a few wears? Linings, internal structure and correct fit all play a part. Understanding these elements makes it easier to choose and care for caps that stay comfortable and true to their silhouette.

This guide explores which linings best suit particular seasons and scalp types, how to introduce discreet stiffening to preserve a flat cap's crown and peak, and straightforward fitting and maintenance steps to prevent sagging and restore a bakerboy cap's shape. Follow these practical tips to achieve a neater silhouette, enhanced comfort and greater longevity for well-loved headwear.

The black-and-white image depicts a middle-aged man working indoors at a table covered with fabric pieces and garments. He is using a tool, possibly a tailor's chalk or cutter, to mark or cut fabric. Behind him, there is a cluttered shelving unit filled with folded textiles and various items. The walls appear to be made of exposed brick, and a wooden ceiling is visible above. A large framed portrait of a woman hangs on the left wall, and shelves with sewing supplies and garments hang on the wall to the righ

Image by Natalia Olivera on Pexels

1. Select linings to ensure year-round comfort and breathability

Choose the lining fibre to suit how the cap will be worn. Silk or satin reduce friction against hair and scalp so the cap sits smoothly; cotton and linen offer natural breathability and wick moisture in warmer weather. Wool or a thin quilted lining trap air for insulation, while modern microfibre blends speed drying and help control odour. Match lining weight and construction to the cap style: a bakerboy cap with a fuller crown benefits from a lightweight padded lining to preserve volume and warmth, whereas a low‑profile flat cap keeps its intended silhouette with a slimmer lining that follows the crown without adding bulk. Cut and attachment also influence drape and shape retention: a bias-cut lining follows the crown curve and reduces pulling, slip-stitched or hand-sewn linings allow subtle movement between shell and lining, and fully fused linings increase rigidity to lock in a firmer profile.

Choose a sweatband that balances comfort with ease of care. Leather will absorb perspiration and gently mould to the head over time; terry or cotton offers high absorbency and straightforward laundering; technical moisture-wicking bands dry quickly and, when replaceable, simplify cleaning while helping a cap retain its fit. To preserve both comfort and silhouette, avoid machine washing to prevent fibre shrinkage and distortion. Spot-clean or hand-wash linings where possible, then steam lightly and reshape the crown on a hat block or a rolled cloth while the hat is still damp. Store caps on a form or a flat surface to maintain their intended line, and remove or replace sweatbands for thorough cleaning to prevent odour and fabric breakdown. These simple routines will keep a bakerboy cap or flat cap looking considered rather than worn.

The image shows a man in a tan or light brown jacket and a light-colored baseball cap, viewed from the side. He is indoors, likely in a workshop or storage area, with industrial-looking orange metal shelves in the background holding various items, including other hats mounted on stands. The man appears to be handling or inspecting a dark-colored cap. Steam or smoke rises near the man, suggesting some processing or manufacturing activity happening. The setting is softly lit with warm tones, and the camera angle is at eye level capturing a medium shot of the man and surrounding environment.

2. Apply stiffening to retain a flat cap's shape

Choose a stiffening material that suits the outer cloth and the degree of hold you want. Open-weave buckram or horsehair canvas will create a crisp, enduring profile, while a lighter fusible interfacing gives subtler support. Always test on a scrap with steam and pressure to see how the fabric moulds and breathes. Stiffen only the peak and the front crown band, leaving the upper crown lightly backed for comfort and ventilation. Cut stiffener pieces to follow the seam lines so the cap retains a natural drape and silhouette. Pad-stitch the stiffener to the outer cloth with small, evenly spaced stitches, working from the peak towards the crown to shape the cap progressively and avoid puckering. These techniques are especially useful when blocking a flat cap or bakerboy cap to preserve a considered, heritage finish.

Once the cap is assembled, gently steam it and mould it over a rounded block or a bowl to form a low bakerboy or flat cap silhouette. Allow it to cool and dry on the block so the fibres settle into the new shape. This setting secures the profile while preserving a soft drape where light backing was left. For long-term care, make any stiffening removable by creating discreet pockets or by using non-fusible inserts in the peak and in the sweatband, so they can be taken out for laundering. After removing inserts, inspect the seams and reinforce them where necessary to ensure the cap retains its structure without the use of permanent adhesives.

A middle-aged man with a gray beard and mustache is seated at a wooden bar counter indoors. He is wearing a checked coat over a black turtleneck and a light gray flat cap. The man rests one hand on the counter and the other near his chin, looking slightly to his left. The background is softly out of focus, showing warm lighting and dark wood paneling, suggesting an indoor pub or bar setting.

3. Fit and care for your flat cap to preserve its classic silhouette

A well-fitting cap begins with careful measurement and mindful wear. Measure the head where the cap naturally sits and try it on so it rests at the hairline; a snug yet comfortable fit will preserve the bakerboy cap or flat cap profile, whereas a loose crown or brim allows the silhouette to collapse. To restore shape, introduce warm steam from a distance, gently mould the crown and brim with your hands, then set the cap on a wooden block, bowl or rolled cloth to cool and hold its line. Always test steam and pressure on an inconspicuous seam first, and avoid saturating the fabric to prevent the internal interfacing from delaminating. Protect the lining and interfacing from moisture and body oils by spot-cleaning with a damp cloth and a mild detergent, alternating wear to let any residual moisture evaporate, and replacing or adding a sweatband when needed, since oils and dampness gradually weaken interfacings and stitching and lead to sagging over time.

Whether a flat cap or a bakerboy cap, stow caps with gentle support and good ventilation: on a head form, on a flat shelf cushioned with acid-free tissue, or tucked into a breathable cotton bag to preserve the crown and keep dust at bay. Do not hang caps by the brim, and avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight, which will fade fabrics and embrittle stiffening materials. Attend to small repairs promptly — re-stitch any loose lining, renew a worn sweatband, or insert a discreet reinforcing tape in the brim to prolong the silhouette. If the block has been lost or the interfacing has failed, consult a milliner for professional re-blocking or re-stiffening rather than attempting repeated home repairs.

Comfort and form in a bakerboy cap rest on three practical levers: the choice of lining, targeted internal stiffening and a snug, well considered fit. Match the lining fibre to the season, pad-stitch a discreet stiffener into the peak and front band, and steam mould the cap on a block to preserve volume without sacrificing breathability. Attended to with care, these measures keep the cap comfortable and its silhouette true.

When selecting, altering or caring for a cap, revisit the lining, stiffening and fit, and test techniques on scraps or removable inserts to avoid irreversible mistakes. With simple routines such as spot-cleaning, renewing the sweatband, rotating wear and occasional professional re-blocking, a bakerboy or flat cap will retain a cleaner line, greater comfort and a longer life.

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