What is the average hat size for men?

The average men's hat size in the UK is 59 cm, typically a size Large. Measuring your head ensures the most accurate fit.

How do I measure my head for a hat?

Use a soft tape measure and measure around your head just above the ears and across the forehead. Keep the tape level and snug to determine your size in centimetres.

A flat cap is a rounded cap with a small stiff brim at the front, traditionally associated with British heritage style.

What is the difference between a fedora and a trilby?

A fedora typically has a wider brim and softer shape, while a trilby features a shorter brim and a taller crown, offering a sleeker silhouette.

Can a felt hat get wet?

Felt hats are naturally water-resistant but should not be exposed to heavy rain for extended periods. Allow them to dry naturally at room temperature.

Do you offer in-store collection?

Yes, orders can be collected from our London, Cambridge, or Oxford stores within 3-5 working days.

Three Brim, Crown, and Profile Rules That Define Hat Formality

July 28, 2026

What makes one hat elevate an outfit while another detracts from it? Slight variations in brim width, crown height, and silhouette largely determine a hat's formality, and therefore how well it harmonises with your clothing.

This post unpacks the mechanics of hat proportion and pairing. It shows how to match hat scale to outfit and occasion, how to read the visual language of brim, crown, and profile, and how to apply rules of proportion, fit, and formality. Practical cues and visual rules illustrate, for example, when a structured fedora complements tailoring and when a bakerboy cap or flat cap suits a more casual ensemble, so you can select a hat that balances silhouette and setting.

An adult man with a beard and mustache stands outdoors near a red vintage vehicle. He wears a brown felt hat with a black band, a herringbone patterned brown tweed jacket, a blue and white checkered dress shirt, and a dark brown tie. The background is blurred but shows green foliage, dry grass, and a rustic brick structure. The vehicle has a boxy design with a front-mounted black spare tire cover and visible side mirror. The man looks off to his left side with a serious expression.

1. Match a hat's scale to your outfit and the occasion

Use shoulder and lapel width as your visual anchor. Measure shoulder seam to seam and keep the brim no wider than that span; a brim that extends well beyond the shoulders will dominate the silhouette, while one much narrower than the lapels will look underscaled. Treat crown height and construction as signals of formality: a taller, well-structured crown suits dressier ensembles, and a low, softer crown suits relaxed outfits. Adjust the brim profile to change the hat’s expression. An upturned or snapped brim opens the face and feels sporty, a flat brim reads neutral, and a downturned brim frames the face and reads dressier. Try small changes to the brim angle while wearing the outfit, as subtle shifts often move the overall impression from casual to tailored.

Scale the hat to your face and body proportions. For rounder faces, choose a slightly taller crown and a narrower brim to introduce verticality; for longer faces, opt for a lower crown and a wider brim to shorten perceived length. Taller or broader figures can carry wider brims and larger crowns without upsetting proportion, while smaller frames generally suit compact styles such as a bakerboy cap or flat cap to avoid being overwhelmed. Material and finish contribute to scale: firm, densely felted, or stiffened fabrics hold crisper edges and therefore read as more formal. Match the hat’s weight and stiffness to the garment fabric, and assess the complete silhouette in a full-length mirror before deciding.

The image depicts two men inside a clothing store specializing in men's suits. One man, dressed in a light shirt and dark vest, is measuring the arm length of another man who is wearing a gray checkered suit. The store interior shows shelves and racks filled with folded pants, shirts, and hanging suits, with warm lighting from ceiling fixtures. The setting is indoors with a medium shot framing the subjects from the waist up, and the camera angle is at eye level. The image is a photograph with a warm, natura

2. Decode brim, crown, and profile: what each reveals about style and fit

Brim width and stiffness signal formality: wider, floppy brims cast deeper shadow and read as outdoorsy, while narrow, stiffer brims keep the silhouette tight and suit dressier ensembles. Crown height and shape function as a visual shorthand; taller, structured crowns create vertical emphasis that complements tailored jackets, whereas low or softly modelled crowns, as seen on bakerboy caps and flat caps, echo workwear and relaxed layering. Always view a hat in profile before purchase, and experiment with slight tilts when wearing—an upright, symmetrical profile reads composed and formal, while a forward or backward tilt introduces movement and a more casual bearing.

Beyond shape and tilt, edge finish and construction determine a hat's behaviour. Crisp, reinforced brims and neatly stitched edges preserve a defined silhouette in motion and in poor weather, while raw or soft edges will drape and relax an outfit. Trims and fabric texture provide signals: a slim ribbon or fine grosgrain and smooth felt read as formal, whereas visible stitching, buckles, patches, and coarse weaves suggest casual, practical wear. To assess structure, flex a brim gently to test its recovery, and note how far the crown rises above the brow; taller crowns favour structured tailoring, lower crowns suit layered, casual looks. Coordinate decorative restraint and fabric finish with the rest of the outfit to nudge overall formality up or down without relying on colour alone.

The image shows a bearded man dressed in a grey tailored jacket standing on a street. The jacket features multiple pockets, buttons up the front, and a high collar. He is wearing a plaid flat cap and has tattoos visible on his hand. The background includes a blue door and windows suggesting a residential or urban outdoor setting. The lighting is natural daylight, and the framing is medium close-up.

3. Apply rules of proportion, fit, and formality when pairing hats and outfits

Aim for a brim about one third to one half of your face width so the hat balances, rather than overwhelms, your features and outfit. Use the mirror test: put the hat on and note whether it dominates your face or the lines of your jacket; if it does, select a narrower brim or a lower-profile shape. Crown height and structure influence formality: a low, soft crown, as found on a bakerboy cap or flat cap, reads casual, while a taller, structured crown with a crisp centre crease or defined pinch reads more formal. Match crown height to your jacket's shoulder and collar lines to maintain a coherent silhouette; a low crown sits neatly under a relaxed collar, a taller crown complements structured shoulders and formal lapels.

Match the brim's curve and edge finish to the lines of your clothing. Flat, sharply edged brims complement tailored suits and narrow lapels, while gently curved brims or raw edges suit more relaxed outfits, broader lapels, and overcoats. Fit and tilt act as signalling devices: a snug fit, allowing roughly a finger's width at the brow and a level brim, reads as formal, while a slight forward or side tilt suggests informality or individual character. Materials alter perception in predictable ways — stiff felts, polished straw, and neatly bound edges make a hat appear more formal, whereas soft felts, unstructured fabrics, and frayed trims will make the same silhouette read casual. Refine fit with hat liners, size tape, or professional blocking so you judge formality by profile, not by a poor fit.

To bring these guidelines together, brim width, crown height, and overall profile operate as visual levers that set a hat's degree of formality. Small shifts can change a hat from something that elevates a tailored suit to an anchor for a relaxed, layered look. Match a hat's scale to your shoulders and face: broader shoulders and square profiles carry wider brims and higher, more structured crowns, while narrower frames suit smaller brims and lower, softer crowns. Material and edge finish further tune the tone: a bound, crisp edge in dense felt reads formal, while a stitched or raw edge in tweed or lighter felt feels more casual. Aligning scale, structure, and materials with your garments lets you shape the hat's signalling with quiet precision.

Use the three rules as a practical checklist. First, ensure the hat's dimensions suit the wearer. Second, read the hat's character by noting brim, crown, and profile. Third, pair the hat with the outfit so proportion, fit, and formality align. Then, in front of a mirror, try small tilts, different materials, and varied brim widths. Refine the fit with liners or blocking, and let observed balance and proportion, rather than assumed labels, decide whether the hat completes the outfit.

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