What is the average hat size for men?

The average men's hat size in the UK is 59 cm, typically a size Large. Measuring your head ensures the most accurate fit.

How do I measure my head for a hat?

Use a soft tape measure and measure around your head just above the ears and across the forehead. Keep the tape level and snug to determine your size in centimetres.

A flat cap is a rounded cap with a small stiff brim at the front, traditionally associated with British heritage style.

What is the difference between a fedora and a trilby?

A fedora typically has a wider brim and softer shape, while a trilby features a shorter brim and a taller crown, offering a sleeker silhouette.

Can a felt hat get wet?

Felt hats are naturally water-resistant but should not be exposed to heavy rain for extended periods. Allow them to dry naturally at room temperature.

Do you offer in-store collection?

Yes, orders can be collected from our London, Cambridge, or Oxford stores within 3-5 working days.

3 Simple Home Repairs to Restore Your Hat's Stitching, Trims and Sweatband

May 18, 2026

That favourite bakerboy cap, its seams frayed and sweatband tired, may seem beyond repair, yet careful at-home mending can restore it. Whether it is loose stitching on a jacket, a missing trim on a cushion, or a worn sweatband on a flat cap, modest repairs reduce waste and preserve the piece's character.

This guide explains how to assess damage, restitch weakened seams and replace trims or sweatbands using straightforward techniques you can undertake at home. Follow these steps to restore fit, finish and longevity, whether you are rescuing a favourite flat cap or revitalising everyday textiles.

The image shows a man in a tan or light brown jacket and a light-colored baseball cap, viewed from the side. He is indoors, likely in a workshop or storage area, with industrial-looking orange metal shelves in the background holding various items, including other hats mounted on stands. The man appears to be handling or inspecting a dark-colored cap. Steam or smoke rises near the man, suggesting some processing or manufacturing activity happening. The setting is softly lit with warm tones, and the camera angle is at eye level capturing a medium shot of the man and surrounding environment.

1. Assess the damage and gently prepare the hat for restoration

Begin by carrying out a systematic inspection in bright, diffuse light, using a magnifier to map loose or missing stitches, dropped threads, split seam allowances, lining deterioration and a worn or frayed sweatband. Gently flex the seams; if a gap widens by several millimetres under light pressure, this points to structural weakening rather than mere surface fraying. Note any salt deposits and a persistent odour in the sweatband as signs of fibre breakdown. Remove surface dust with a soft brush. Blot an inconspicuous seam with a mild detergent solution to check colourfastness, and always test any adhesive or solvent on a hidden area before proceeding.

Photograph the cap from multiple angles and catalogue each issue. Label removed trims and a selection of original stitches, keeping them as templates to match shape, stitch type and placement when reattaching so the cap's patina and silhouette are preserved. Restore the shape on a tailor's ham, small block or shoe last suited to the style, whether a flat cap or bakerboy cap, and secure areas with fine pins or clips to avoid further damage while you work. Remove old stitching one thread at a time with a seam ripper, supporting the fabric beneath as you go. Test stitch type and tension on scrap fabric and choose repairs guided by the material evidence. Reinforce seams with compatible thread and plan for a full sweatband renewal when elasticity or fibre integrity has failed. Bear in mind that many caps have sweatbands stitched rather than glued, which alters removal and reattachment technique.

A focused leather craftsman inspects materials in a well-lit workshop.

2. Restitch and reinforce frayed hat seams for enduring strength

Inspect the seam carefully, looking for frayed threads, uneven stitch spacing, puckering or any separation between the lining and shell. Gently ease open the seam allowance to reveal hidden weak spots so you can target repairs rather than reworking the entire seam. Choose a needle and thread that suit both fabric and lining: use stronger polyester or bonded thread for high-stress seams, silk or cotton for period-accurate caps, and a leather needle or a sharp, sturdy needle for leather and densely woven felts commonly found in bakerboy and flat caps. Selecting the correct combination reduces the risk of further damage and makes hand-stitching more effective.

When repairing a flat cap or bakerboy cap, favour hand-stitch techniques that maximise strength. Use backstitch for a continuous, load-bearing line; employ ladder stitch to close linings invisibly; keep stitches small and even to spread tension; and double-thread joins that carry the crown or brim. Where extra reinforcement is required, extend the seam allowance if possible, insert a narrow strip of stabilising fabric behind the seam and place discreet bar tacks at stress points such as sweatband joins and brim attachments. Finish by trimming and burying knots, then reshape and press the seam through a cloth to restore the cap's profile. Flex the repaired area to test durability, and if the cap retains historic construction methods or the fabric feels brittle, consult a millinery specialist to preserve its original character and workmanship.

The image shows a dark blue fedora hat placed on a wooden hat stretcher clamp, centered on a circular metal table or surface. The background is mostly grayscale, featuring shelves filled with stacks of hats or hat forms. There is another hat visible in the background on the right side, slightly out of focus. The setting appears to be indoors, likely a hat shop or millinery workspace. The lighting is soft and diffused, with a moderate contrast highlighting the hat as the color focal point against the monochromatic backdrop.

3. Replace missing trimmings and carefully restore the sweatband

Begin by cataloguing the missing trims. Photograph the hat and record the trim type, such as piping, braid or decorative button, then assess thickness, weave and colour to choose a replacement that preserves the original silhouette. Where possible, salvage similar trims from a vintage bakerboy cap or flat cap, as a close match in texture and weight helps the finished piece retain its shape. Remove remnants carefully with a seam ripper or small scissors, retaining the original stitch lines as a template and clearing away old glue or frayed fibres so the new trim sits flat. Reinforce any weakened fabric with a line of stay stitches or a lightweight backing to prevent new stitches pulling through.

Secure the new trim with small, even hand-stitches. Use slip-stitching for an invisible join or a neat topstitch for a decorative, long-wearing finish. Always practise on a spare scrap of fabric first to match thread colour and tension accurately. To renew the sweatband, remove the old band and cut a replacement from leather, faux leather or cotton twill to follow the hat's internal curve. Fit the band with a slight overlap at the back for a discreet join that stabilises the crown and helps absorb moisture. Finish by trimming thread tails and reinforcing stress points with discreet stitching or a small dab of fabric-safe adhesive. For easier cleaning, consider a removable liner: grosgrain complements a period bakerboy cap, while suede better suits the character of a flat cap.

A few careful, targeted repairs can return a well-worn bakerboy cap or flat cap to service, preserving its fit, finish and the patina that lends vintage pieces their character. Inspect the piece in good light, catalogue the trims and choose an appropriate needle and thread so you can reinforce weak seams, restitch joins and guard against further wear.

Follow three core steps: assess and prepare; restitch and reinforce; renew trims and the sweatband. Concentrate effort where it will make the greatest difference to extend the hat's life. With patience and the right techniques, preserve the original silhouette and materials, reduce waste and ensure a flat cap or bakerboy cap remains wearable and cherished.

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