Laird Hatters Explores the English Dandy

Across the pond from Laird Hatters, at fashion’s most anticipated event, and under the watchful eye of English-born Anna Wintour, the 2025 Met Gala is upon us. This year’s theme feels particularly close to home: Superfine: Tailored for You. A celebration of sharp tailoring, Black cultural influence, and the enduring spirit of dandyism. It pays homage to a legacy that spans both sides of the Atlantic.

While the evening will honour iconic American dandies who have left their mark on style, the roots of dandyism can be traced back to England. In fact, just down the road from our Jermyn Street flagship stands a statue of the original dandy himself, Beau Brummell, whose flair for elegance and detail shaped the very foundations of modern menswear.

At Laird Hatters, we believe the right hat does more than complete a look, it defines the chap. Join us as we delve into the history of the English dandy and explore how headwear has always played a leading role in the art of personal style.

What Makes an English Dandy

Have you heard the term dandy before? A dandy is not merely a well-dressed lad, he is deliberately so. At his core, a dandy is a man who uses elegance, wit and personal style as both armour and art form. He dresses with precision, not for vanity, but as an expression of intellect, independence and cultivated taste. It doesn’t matter his socio-economic status or where he comes from. It’s how he presents himself to the world that a dandy is formed. 

Dandyism first emerged in late 18th and early 19th century England, when figures like Beau Brummell revolutionised menswear by rejecting excessive ornamentation in favour of understated, tailored refinement. The English dandy favoured strong fit, crisp collars, exquisite fabrics, and, above all, effortless poise. His power came not from wealth or title, but from how he carried himself.

While American dandyism later evolved with its own flair — more flamboyant, sometimes more political — the English dandy remained rooted in subtlety and restraint. Where the American dandy might dazzle with colour and theatricality, the English counterpart preferred the quiet drama of perfect tailoring and a well-chosen hat.

The Many Hats of an English Dandy

It should be no surprise that a dandy had a penchant for hats. A hat for him wasn’t just a finishing touch, but a symbol of refinement, character and command. Hats were integral to the dandy’s silhouette, announcing his presence before a word was spoken.

Top Hats

The Top Hat reigned supreme during the Regency and Victorian eras. Worn by Beau Brummell and his followers. Top hats conveyed elegance, stature and a mastery of the social stage. It was tall, polished, and a must for important social events. As we head into the summer show season, a top hat is a must to command confidence and posture.

Bowler Hats

By the late 19th century, the Bowler Hat had become the defining look of the city gentleman. Originally designed for gamekeepers, it was soon adopted by the urban elite for its blend of practicality and polish. A sharp, structured bowler paired beautifully with a tailored overcoat and walking cane. Understated, yet unmistakably dandy.

Fedora and Trilby

In the early 20th century, especially in North American fashion, the Fedora began to gain ground among style-conscious men who preferred a slightly softer silhouette. With its wide brim and distinctive crown, it offered a more relaxed elegance than the top hat, without sacrificing sophistication. The Trilby, with its narrower brim, was more popular in English fashion.

Flat Caps and Newsboys

For off-duty moments, especially in country estates or leisurely weekends, dandies often turned to flat caps and newsboy caps — crafted in fine tweeds, checks and wools. Though more casual, these styles still carried the dandy’s signature: well-considered, well-fitted, and always intentional.

Notable London and British Dandies

1. Oscar Wilde (1854–1900)
Perhaps the most flamboyant and intellectual of London's dandies, Irish Wilde elevated fashion into philosophy. Known for his velvet jackets, silk cravats and witty epigrams, he used style as both social commentary and personal armour. His aesthetic, wit and defiant individuality defined late Victorian dandyism.

2. Lord Byron (1788–1824)
The original romantic rebel, Byron turned brooding charisma into a personal brand. His penchant for dramatic capes, open collars and lush textures captured the darker, more sensual side of the English dandy.

3. Sebastian Horsley (1962–2010)
A modern-day dandy and provocateur, Horsley embraced decadence, tailoring and self-mythology in equal measure. Famed for his bespoke suits, red nails, and outlandish quotes, he saw dandyism as a form of resistance.

4. Cecil Beaton (1904–1980)
Photographer, diarist and socialite, Beaton brought dandyism into the 20th century with elegance and creativity. Always impeccably dressed, he merged sartorial flair with artistic vision, capturing the glamour of British high society — often while wearing it.

5. Quentin Crisp (1908–1999)
A dandy of defiant honesty, Crisp dressed flamboyantly and unapologetically in mid-century England, long before it was safe to do so. With powdered hair, painted nails and a fearless wit, he redefined the dandy as an outsider hero, embracing his difference with dignity and grace.

Where is English Dandyism Heading?

Source: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-7187609/Modern-day-dandy-25-shuns-current-fashion-dress-1820s-gent.html

English dandyism may have its roots in Regency drawing rooms and Edwardian promenades, but its spirit is far from past tense. In fact, dandyism today is undergoing a quiet revival.

Modern dandies are reinterpreting the past, blending historical reverence with contemporary relevance. One such figure is Zack Pinsent, a proud English dandy known for exclusively wearing authentic historical garments. From Regency waistcoats to Victorian tailcoats, his daily attire is a living archive. But what makes Zack’s approach so important is how he uses modern tools to invite a new generation in: social media, global press, and public events. His platform is not about exclusion or elitism; it’s about sharing joy, craftsmanship, and heritage with a wider, more diverse audience.

At Laird Hatters, we see this evolution every day. Our customers come from all walks of life, but share a common belief: that what you wear can still tell the world who you are. That a hat — like dandyism itself — is never just decoration. It's a declaration.

So, where is English dandyism heading today?

Wherever it’s worn with pride, reimagined with heart, and shared with generosity.